Market evolution: Men's and boys' underwear and nightwear (CN 6207) — 2015–2025

Introduction

This report examines the evolution of EU trade in Men's or boys' singlets and other vests, underpants, briefs, nightshirts, pyjamas, bathrobes, dressing gowns and similar articles (excl. knitted or crocheted) (Customs Code 6207) over the period 2015–2025. The category covers a broad range of men's and boys' non-knitted underwear and nightwear, from cotton briefs and pyjamas to bathrobes and dressing gowns, spanning seven sub-headings. Over this decade, the EU market underwent three fundamental transformations: a near-total collapse of domestic production, a significant reconfiguration of import sourcing away from China toward South Asia, and a marked expansion of exports that partially offset the growing trade deficit. Import value grew modestly (+5.7%, from €179.3 million to €189.6 million) while exports expanded far more dynamically (+51.1%, from €30.1 million to €45.5 million), yet the underlying trade deficit remained structurally large at approximately €144 million by 2025. The most striking indicator of the decade's upheaval is the net import reliance metric, which surged from under 10% to over 71%, signalling a fundamental shift in the EU's role in this market.

1. The Hollowing-Out of EU Production and the Rise of Import Dependency

EU domestic production collapsed at an unprecedented rate

The most dramatic development of the period was the near-disappearance of EU production of men's non-knitted underwear and nightwear. Measured in items, output fell from 125.4 million pieces in 2015 to just 7.1 million in 2025 — a decline of 94.3%. In value terms, production shrank from €288.2 million to €48.1 million (−83.3%). This is not a cyclical fluctuation; it represents a structural retreat of EU-based manufacturing in this product category. Only a handful of Member States — notably Bulgaria, Portugal, Romania, Croatia, and Spain — retain any meaningful specialisation in this sector, while countries such as Malta, Estonia, and Ireland show negligible or no activity.

Net import reliance and trade intensity surged to extreme levels

The collapse of domestic output translated directly into soaring import dependence. The net import reliance ratio — imports minus exports, expressed as a share of apparent consumption — climbed from 9.9% in 2015 to 71.6% in 2025, a sixfold increase. Trade intensity followed a similar trajectory, rising from 10.8% to 104.1%, indicating that the volume of trade (imports plus exports) now substantially exceeds what the EU produces domestically. Meanwhile, export propensity surged from 0.5% to 119.1%, meaning that exports now exceed domestic production — a pattern consistent with the EU increasingly acting as a hub that imports finished or semi-finished goods and re-exports them within Europe and to third markets.

The trade deficit narrowed only marginally despite export growth

Despite the strong rise in exports, the EU's trade balance in CN 6207 remained deeply negative throughout the period. The deficit moved from −€149.2 million in 2015 to −€144.0 million in 2025, an improvement of just 3.4%. The minimum deficit (−€109.4 million) was recorded around 2020–2021, coinciding with the pandemic-related import dip and a temporary export peak. However, the structural gap between imports (€189.6 million) and exports (€45.5 million) in 2025 confirms that the EU remains a net consumer of externally produced men's underwear and nightwear on a massive scale.

2. A Tectonic Shift in Sourcing: From China to South Asia

China's dominant share eroded substantially

In 2015, China was the EU's largest supplier of CN 6207 products, with imports valued at €60.8 million — representing roughly a third of total extra-EU imports. By 2025, Chinese shipments had fallen to €43.1 million, a decline of 29.2%. This contraction reflects several overlapping forces: rising Chinese labour costs that eroded the price competitiveness of basic textile apparel, EU diversification strategies driven by geopolitical considerations and supply-chain risk awareness, and growing competition from other Asian producers. China's decline was most visible in cotton underpants and briefs (sub-heading 620711), where import volumes from China fell steeply, and in cotton nightshirts and pyjamas (620721).

Pakistan emerged as the EU's leading supplier

Pakistan experienced the most dramatic gain among the EU's import partners, with shipments rising from €16.5 million in 2015 to €38.4 million in 2025 — a 133.1% increase that made it the EU's single largest supplier by value, overtaking China. Pakistan's competitive advantage rests on its well-established cotton textile industry, low labour costs, and proximity to raw material supply. The growth was concentrated in cotton-based sub-categories (620711 and 620791), which align with Pakistan's natural comparative advantage in cotton processing.

Bangladesh and India consolidated their positions

Bangladesh grew from €22.5 million to €34.4 million (+52.8%), cementing its position as the third-largest supplier. India followed with even faster proportional growth (+74.8%, from €11.7 million to €20.4 million). Together, Pakistan, Bangladesh, and India accounted for a rapidly growing share of EU imports, collectively surpassing China's 2015 dominance. The concentration index (HHI) for imports by value declined from 1,729 to 1,572 (−9.1%), confirming a moderate diversification of the EU's sourcing base.

Brexit and geopolitical events reshaped specific bilateral flows

Two bilateral relationships were dramatically reshaped by political events. Imports from the United Kingdom collapsed from €18.5 million in 2015 to just €3.9 million in 2025 (−79.1%), a direct consequence of Brexit, which moved the UK outside the EU customs territory and introduced new trade frictions. Similarly, imports from Tunisia fell by 81.8% (from €7.4 million to €1.4 million), reflecting a long-term decline in Tunisia's textile competitiveness relative to Asian producers. In contrast, Türkiye maintained its position with modest growth (+6.2%, to €24.0 million), benefiting from its proximity to the EU and established textile infrastructure.

3. Export Expansion, Diversification, and Price Volatility

EU exports grew strongly across both value and volume

While the EU's role as a producer declined sharply, its position as an exporter of CN 6207 products paradoxically strengthened. Export value rose from €30.1 million to €45.5 million (+51.1%) and export volume grew from 1,252 tonnes to 1,764 tonnes (+40.9%). Average export prices increased by 7.1% (from €24,043/t to €25,753/t), suggesting that the EU maintained or shifted toward higher-value segments of the market. The expansion was driven by several EU Member States, with France (+139.9%), Spain (+237.4%), and Italy (+20.1%) recording the largest gains among reporting Member States.

Export destinations diversified significantly

The HHI for exports by value dropped sharply, from 1,740 to 1,117 (−35.8%), indicating a far more diversified export portfolio by 2025 compared to 2015. The United Kingdom remained the largest single export destination (€11.8 million, essentially stable at +2.6%), but its relative share diminished as other markets grew rapidly: Ukraine (+312.1%, reaching €2.3 million), Morocco (+120.2%), the United States (+86.5%), and Switzerland (+75.4%). Ukraine's surge is particularly noteworthy and likely reflects both trade reorientation and EU solidarity measures following 2022.

The 2021–2022 period was marked by severe price shocks

The volatility analysis reveals that several bilateral trade relationships experienced sharp price shocks centred on 2022. The most significant was a price shock in EU exports to the United Kingdom, where unit values shifted by +75.3% with an abnormality score of 320.4 — likely linked to post-Brexit customs adjustments, the 2021–2022 global shipping crisis, and energy-cost pass-through. On the import side, Bangladesh experienced a price shock in 2022 (abnormality 65.9, +20.9%), consistent with the global surge in raw material and energy costs during that year. Ukraine was the most volatile export partner overall, with a coefficient of variation of 1.71, reflecting the extreme disruption caused by the war. Tunisia (CV 0.46 on imports) and several smaller export partners also exhibited elevated instability.

Conclusion

The EU market for men's and boys' non-knitted underwear and nightwear (CN 6207) has undergone a fundamental structural transformation between 2015 and 2025. Domestic production has all but vanished, declining by over 94% in volume and 83% in value, leaving the EU overwhelmingly reliant on imports. The sourcing landscape shifted decisively from China toward the Indian subcontinent, with Pakistan, Bangladesh, and India collectively displacing China as the dominant supply base — a trend accelerated by cost competitiveness, diversification imperatives, and the post-Brexit reclassification of the United Kingdom as an extra-EU partner. At the same time, EU exports expanded robustly, particularly to non-traditional markets, and became significantly more diversified. However, this export growth was insufficient to materially close the trade deficit, which remained near €144 million in 2025. The extreme rise in net import reliance (to 71.6%) and the near-total production exit point to a market that is now fundamentally structured around external sourcing — a reality that exposes the EU to supply-chain risks, currency fluctuations, and the price volatility that was sharply visible during the 2021–2022 shock period.