Market evolution: Footwear parts (CN 640690) — 2015–2025

Introduction

This report analyses the evolution of the European Union's trade in footwear parts and accessories, classified under Combined Nomenclature (CN) code 640690, between 2015 and 2025. This category is a residual heading that encompasses removable insoles, heel cushions, gaiters, leggings, and various other footwear components. The period under review was marked by significant volatility and structural shifts, driven by global supply chain disruptions, inflationary pressures, and evolving trade patterns. The EU's position transformed from that of a net exporter to a net importer, indicating a fundamental change in the industry's competitive dynamics and sourcing strategies.

1. A Structural Reversal: From Net Exporter to Net Importer

The most defining trend over the decade was the EU's shift from a trade surplus to a deficit in this product category. This reversal was driven by diverging trends in the value of imports and exports.

1.1. The Vanishing Trade Surplus

In 2015, the EU enjoyed a trade surplus of approximately €29.8 million. By 2025, this had swung dramatically to a deficit of around €267.9 million. This change was not merely a result of cyclical factors but reflected a deep structural shift, as indicated by the net import reliance metric moving from -13.2% to +13.8%.

1.2. Divergent Paths of Exports and Imports

The reversal was caused by imports growing substantially while exports contracted. The value of EU imports grew by 79.1% over the period, reaching €539.1 million in 2025. In contrast, the value of EU exports fell by 18.0% to €271.2 million. The dynamics in volume (net mass) were even more stark: import quantity rose by 43.1%, while export quantity plummeted by 49.2%, suggesting a significant decline in the EU's competitive position in low-value, high-weight segments of the market.

2. Price Inflation and the Shift to Higher-Value Segments

A key observation is that while the EU imported and exported less physical goods in many segments, the unit values (prices per tonne) increased dramatically, indicating inflationary pressures and a possible shift towards higher-quality or more processed products.

2.1. Significant Price Increases Across the Board

Both import and export prices per tonne rose substantially. The average export price per tonne increased by 61.5% (from €10,018 to €16,181), while the average import price per tonne increased by 25.2% (from €15,574 to €19,497). This overall inflation masks varied performance across sub-categories.

2.2. Divergent Performances in Product Sub-Segments

Analysis of the product segment breakdown reveals that the "Assemblies of uppers affixed to inner soles" (CN 64069030) was the star performer for imports, with its value rising from €58.5M to €292.5M. Its price per tonne also increased by 41.2%. Conversely, the core "Parts of footwear" category (CN 64069090) saw its export quantity fall by over 50%, though its price per tonne rose by 53.6%.

EU Imports by Sub-Segment (Value, € millions)

3. Shifting Geographies of Trade and Supply Concentration

The geographic profile of the EU's trade partners evolved, highlighting a diversification in import sources alongside a concentration on a few key export markets, primarily in the Western Balkans and North Africa.

3.1. Import Diversification with New Key Partners

While China remained the largest import partner (€153.0M in 2025), its share was challenged by rapid growth from nearby economies. Notably, imports from Albania surged by 910.0%, from Ukraine by 409.6%, and from Türkiye by 191.6%. This suggests a near-shoring trend, with EU companies increasingly sourcing components from geographically proximate and cost-competitive regions. The import concentration (HHI) fell from 1831 to 1558, indicating a moderate diversification of suppliers.

3.2. Exports Stagnate and Concentrate on Traditional Hubs

EU exports remained heavily focused on neighboring countries with established, often outward-processing, trade links. Bosnia and Herzegovina, Albania, Tunisia, and Morocco consistently featured as the top destinations. However, exports to some of these key partners, like Serbia (-61.4%) and Bosnia and Herzegovina (-34.6%), declined significantly over the period. The export concentration (HHI) remained relatively stable and low (around 850), but this masked underlying weakness as the destination portfolio failed to expand.

3.3. EU Member States: Italy's Dominance and Regional Specialisation

Within the EU, Italy was the dominant player but saw its role shift dramatically. It was the top exporter (€132.3M in 2025, though down 33.5% from 2015) and became the top importer (€176.4M, a 276.5% increase). This underscores Italy's central role in the European footwear supply chain, both in production and in sourcing components. Other Member States like Poland, Spain, and Romania showed strong specialisation (high RSCA) in this sector, indicating they host significant production capacities.

Conclusion

The period 2015-2025 was transformative for the EU's trade in footwear parts (CN 640690). The sector transitioned from a position of trade balance to a pronounced deficit, characterized by rising import volumes and values juxtaposed with declining exports. This structural shift was compounded by widespread price inflation across all segments, suggesting input cost pressures and a possible move up the value chain. Geographically, import sourcing diversified towards nearby economies in the Western Balkans and Türkiye, while export markets remained concentrated but showed signs of stagnation. Italy's heightened role as both the EU's main exporter and importer highlights its pivotal, yet increasingly import-dependent, position in the supply chain. Overall, the data points to a European industry that is becoming more integrated with and reliant on external suppliers, a dynamic that increases exposure to regional and global supply chain risks.